Vehicles + Vinyl
Let There Be Light
A look at backlit signage
Published
17 years agoon
I’m a freak, a sign freak. I admit it, and I embrace it. There, I’ve said it. Nothing sets my freak meter on tilt like a well-designed, high-impact backlit sign. During my days running a commercial-sign company’s graphics department, I was like a kid in a candy store – high-output bulbs, neon, LEDs.
This month, we’ll look at my favorite type of signs, and different vinyl and substrates you’ll work with, to create your own backlit beauty. We’ll also examine some application guidelines that’ll help you succeed, as well as some new technology that’ll take illuminated signage to new levels.
Diffusing the situation
A backlit sign comprises several basic components: a sign cabinet, with high-output bulbs; a signface, typically decorated with translucent vinyl or other decoration; and a retainer system to hold the cabi¬net’s signface.
By design, today’s translucent, PSA vinyl films diffuse light. During the manufacturing process, the film’s pigment is reduced, both to allow light to pass through and coagulate, and to slow down the light transmission through the film before it hits your eyes. The net result eliminates “hot spots,” or the lightbulbs’ or neon’s outline.
AdvertisementCurrently, cast, calendered and ultra-calendered translucent films are available. Choose cast and ultra-calendered films for medium- to long-term applications, such as corporate-identity programs. Use calendered films in such shorter-term applications as POP and multi-tenant signage. Your translucent vinyl may diffuse light, but it can’t do it alone.
Putting the pieces together
To complete the signface, the vinyl must stick to a substrate. Currently, the most popular and most readily available substrates are polycarbonate (Lexan or acrylic – both come in white or clear) and flexible signface material (available in white only). These substrates’ light-diffusing properties should all but eliminate hot spots. However, substrates differ per manufacturer, so read the technical bulletins carefully and test before actual selection.
For polycarbonates, remove the protective sheeting 24 hours before graphic application. The substrate may need to “outgas” once it arrives at the shop. You’ll recognize this if your freshly applied graphic suddenly appears to have a million small bubbles in it.
You can also use flexible-face, PVC-based material with bult-in UV protection and light-diffusing properties.
Similar to many banner materials, flexible-face substrates differ by having “rip-stop” properties – an inadvertent tear or cut won’t continue to grow. Several light sources illuminate backlit signs: fluorescent bulbs, neon and LEDs. Each offers a different white value, which impacts the sign’s appearance. Experiment with each to achieve the desired effect.
AdvertisementLet’s examine the sign cabinet. Generally, a deeper sign cabinet means less brightness. Consequently, too thin a cabinet can cause hot spots or image washout. Recent LED enhancements, however, strive to overcome these obstacles.
Clean stick
Let’s now discuss selecting and prepping substrates for the graphic. When cleaning polycarbonate substrates, stick to basic dish detergents like Dawn or Joy (no additives, such as lotions or perfumes) mixed with cool, clean water. Two tablespoons per quart usually suffices, but keep it nearby, you’ll need soon.
The same soap-and-water mixture cleans flexible-face substrates, too. But, these substrates need a final isopropyl alcohol cleaning to remove all surface contaminants. Use a wet application when the surfaces contain maximum adhesion properties (technical speak for “when it’s stuck, it’s stuck”). The application fluid gives you extra minutes of forgiveness, just in case.
Application procedures
1. Choose a very firm squeegee, which will give you excellent leverage.
Advertisement2. When applying the graphic, use very firm downward pressure and overlapping strokes. This forces out the residual application fluid.
3. Once the entire graphic is applied, lightly mist the transfer tape (low-tack tapes are generally best) to provide easier release from the graphic.
4. If seams are necessary, limit them to ¼ in. Otherwise, they’ll be conspicuous with night-time illumination.
Details, details…
We must still discuss other vinyl films used to enhance the signface-production process. Again, because polycarbonates can be white and clear, you can create first- (graphics on the outside) or second-surface signs (graphics reverse-plotted and applied to the inside). A clear substrate and second-surface graphic are protected from both harmful UV rays and mechanical damage. However, your graphic’s last layer needs a “diffuser film.” This type of film eliminates those hot spots referenced earlier.
For first-surface graphics, protection films offer further UV and mechanical-damage protection –a laminate for a digital print is a good comparison. These films may increase your production process but they’re worth it.
New stuff
LED manufacturers are nearing a true, white light. In years past, the whites have been slightly yellow or blue, which ultimately affects the translucent films. However, with these developments, you soon should see big shifts from traditional light sources to LEDs. Also, look out for light-emitting capacitor (LEC) technology, as provided by Ceelite Inc. (www.ceelite.com). This LEC light, very thin panels suitable for numerous applications, can be wrapped around columns or set to music to create a dynamic graphic. Cool stuff, indeed.
Lights out
Backlighting attracts attention for maximum impact. But, before you choose options, do your research. Check local city and county ordinances to see what is and what isn’t acceptable. There’s nothing worse than selling your customer on a fantastic, illuminated sign you can’t make. Material and substrate selection are critical, so read all the manufacturer’s technical specifications and recommended application guidelines. After all, if we’re not a resource to our customers, it’ll be lights out for us.
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