How to Be a Specialist

Rob Ivers owns Rob Ivers Inc. (Raymore, MO), a vehicle-graphics and installation company. He’s installed vinyl since 1978 and taught vinyl-graphics installation since 1993. For more information, visit www.robivers.com

Specialty films include reflective, translucent and mirror-finish vinyl. Each offers its own unique applications, properties and characteristics. Yet, they have something in common — they’re more difficult to install than standard vinyl. Don’t let that scare you, though; they provide an upside of very attractive graphics.

Do your homework when considering these films. Numerous manufacturers produce several different types. Some are very similar, while others differ dramatically. For example, most mirror-finish products are polyester and provide no conformability. Typically, they’re only specified for flat surfaces and limited outdoor exposure.

When installing any film for the first time, limit your risk by removing the liner only as needed, and keep the film off the surface until you squeegee. This particularly applies to these specialty films. Usually, you only have one chance to get it right. Unlike standard cast vinyl, you may not be able to lightly snap the material loose to make an adjustment.

Heating the vinyl to remove a small blemish may work with some reflective films, but not with mirror or translucent products. These films’ costs tends to be “special” as well, so be careful. Follow recommendations for use, and the results can justify the extra effort.

Reflectives
Engineering-grade, reflective media are classified as high performance. These enclosed-lens, retro-reflective films reflect light directly back to the lightsource. Managers of emergency-response, law-enforcement and commercial fleets favor reflective films because of their nighttime visibility. Other than conspicuity tape for commercial tractor/trailers, I don’t know of regulations for such films.

Vehicles that sport bright, sharp graphics both day and night enhance the advertising impact while also promoting safety. Due to films’ retro-reflectiveness, manufacturers recommend vertical application.

Reflective films are less forgiving than standard, cast vinyl. The workable temperature range is smaller; 68 to 72° F is the optimum range. Due to reflective films’ thicknesses and layered compositions, they tear easily when cold. Some feature air egress, but most routinely generate bubbles, particularly at 75° F and above. Air-egress media benefits most applications.

Reflective films pose a unique problem — lines form when they’re lifted or snapped after having been squeegeed. These don’t go away, even with heat. Bubbles can be poked so they’ll “disappear,” but the material’s thickness may cause a raised adhesive ring around the bubble’s edge. To avoid this, warm the vinyl lightly after you poke the air-release hole, but before you attempt to push the air out.

In my experience, reflective requires more diligent edge sealing than other vinyl. Once all the air is out, apply heat and pressure to every edge. If the graphic includes premask, heat and brush all edges prior to removing it. A very stiff brush, such as 3M’s Power Grip RBA-3, works best. Follow the graphic’s edge with a torch or heat gun, and warm it until just before the premask turns golden brown, then brush it firmly before it cools.

Finally, realize that you’ll likely have adhesive to clean off after you remove reflective films. I had great difficulty removing the residue until I got lucky and made a discovery. I learned that reflective vinyl must be very hot. It’s even more critical to keep the vinyl close to the surface at a low angle. Pull the vinyl the opposite the direction you want it to go. To remove the vinyl upward, pull down on the bottom edge.

 

Mirror gold and silver
Most mirror gold and silver products are made from polyester. They resemble thin sheets of metal, and are incapable of bending around objects. Study product bulletins carefully for recommended applications. Some stipulate indoor only; few last more than one year outdoors.

There are exceptions. I installed mirror gold on outside windows roughly eight years ago, and the vinyl is still there. The gold wore off, so it’s mirror-silver now and scratched, but I still haven’t seen any loose edges or shrinkage. Some brands may outlast others; do your homework and experiment. Avoid all vehicles, rivets or corrugations.

My biggest problem with mirror vinyl is how easily it scratches. It seems that you might scratch a shiny new piece by simply looking at it. Bubbles present a true problem. You can poke them, but they seldom remove as cleanly as they would from standard cast vinyl. In short, they’re intended for a limited application range, and are a little difficult to work with.

On the other hand, using mirror gold and silver can transform ordinary designs into extraordinary signs. I made a sign for a small boutique that featured mirror gold on a hunter-green background. I installed the two-color logo on a piece of ¼-in.-thick, clear acrylic circle and faced it with another acrylic layer. I mounted the sign with spacers behind so it stood off the wall. Cylindrical brass caps matched the shiny vinyl and hid the screws. The sign looked like a million bucks, although I think I only received $500 for it in 1982.

 

Translucents
Translucent films are a high-performance, flexible, cast vinyl ideal for such architectural graphics as rigid, backlit signs and flexible awnings. The colors remain consistent in both transmitted and reflected lighting. Translucent films most commonly decorate flat acrylic and polycarbonate sheets.

Polycarbonate may require oven drying before use, because outgassing of residual moisture may cause the film to bubble. Avoid vehicle graphics, rivets or corrugation. For signs with two or more intersecting colors, install lighter colors first. Include bleeds and traps (overlaps) to prevent light seepage.

Apply translucent films at 60 to 65° F. They’re slightly stiff with a very aggressive, permanent adhesive. I recommend wet application with a solution of one teaspoon of mild detergent (no lotions or surfactants) per gallon of water. Translucent is the only vinyl type whose warranty covers wet application. Avoid it with other products.

The slightly cooler temperature range and wet application often help prevent bubbles. Even a small hole to release air will show when lit at night. The adhesive is specially formulated for the wet application. Small wrinkles and blemishes in the vinyl can’t be healed with heat.

Use premask for all solid-color installations. It prevents scratching and helps installation. Because wet application is recommended, squeegee multiple times to expel maximum fluid. Then, wait 24 hours before removing the premask. Finally, spray the installed graphic with the soapy-water solution to prevent scratching, and carefully re-squeegee the entire graphic.

This column concludes my Real World Vinyl series. It’s been a pleasure sharing my knowledge with you. ST has received several positive letters about my column; I’m glad I could help you master vinyl installation. Keep learning and perfecting your craft.